Awesome day… after waking up at quarter to eleven (I love the weekend) as we had set a plan to leave by eleven, I hustled to dress appropriately and scarf down some flat bread so we could begin the adventures. A couple of the girls on my floor and I took a cab to downtown Amman (where we found the life of the city) to see the Roman Amphitheater, the Odeon and the museum in the area. It was a stunning sight, the stairs were menacing, and since we were the only tourists there, we climbed to the very top and inhaled Amman from an altitude. By chance, we ran into a couple other girls on our floor, and together we hopped a cab where I asked “Ahlan, Temple of Hercules?” – Aywa, aywa (yes, yes). The man drives us first to one mosque, where we shake our heads, and again, in obnoxious English “ Tem---plleeee--- of HER-CU-LES” Ah! Aywa, aywa, Jaba al Husseini. At which point we end up at a second mosque (and here we exit, for our communication skills are pathetic).
The mosques we saw were quite breathtaking, and if it were not for our stunning verbal pyrotechnics, we would have missed a beautiful part of town.
Finally we pulled together our Arabic skills and figured out a way to convey “Citadel” in Arabic, and took our third taxi to Jebel al Qal’a (citadel hill), which was settled over 18,000 years ago. Now, if you happened to be one of those people who watched the indie film “Captain Abu Raed” before I left, this is where the boys played soccer- I also took a picture of the view Abu Raed had from his bedroom. For the rest of you, I provided pictures. We, once again, by chance, met up with seven or eight of the boys from whom we had been separated on the first day. They helped guide us along and told us tales of Sheimsani where they live, as well as accounts of a day in the life of a homestay (better them than I!).
We were able to exchange numbers and figure out our schedules at school. The amazing thing about this summit, other than the Temple and all the ruins is that on one side (the view from the movie and my pictures) are the Palestinian “camps” set up for the huge influx of refugees (these are permanent, and this region is known as East Amman) whereas the other side is the where we live, and practically the rest of Amman (West Amman, even though we are on the south eastern corner of the west side of Amman). The view is beyond words for me. Amman appears the largest city in the world due to the undulating hills and all the houses appearing the same from afar. It gives you the impression of looking onto a gigantic 3-D puzzle.
After an hour or so of uncovering the ruins, and the museum (which, I’m happy to say, we paid half price for since we were UJ students), the boys bravely walked down the hill to the Theater, and while I was antsy to join them and walk (as opposed to paying for a cab), it is not culturally appropriate for me, the one girl, to be walking with 8 men to whom I am not related, during Ramadan, in a market place. Needless to say, four of us took a cab down to the Souks on the main street (Al-Hashemi Street) to haggle for a few hours. While this proved quite fruitful, it is nonetheless exhausting. I haggled for three gifts (which I cannot describe since they might be for you) as well as a charm of the Westbank (I did not buy a charm of Jordan yet) prayer beads made of a beautiful blue local stone from the Bedouins, and a silver keychain of Jordan with the locations scripted in Arabic. I am sorry to say, but I will be bringing home Argelieh, or Hubbly Bubbly (a hookah), it’s just going to happen. There are SO many amazing things to bargain for, and if you are dying for a prayer mat, an ornate keffiyeh, scarf, women’s dress, jewelry etc, let me know, I’m becoming a star haggler. Kem? Wahad dinar!? Le, le… Ithnaan for wahad dinar..AYWA!
There are subtle differences in language I hear here. Even with m impressively extensive knowledge of Arabic vocabulary, people still ask me if I have been to Egypt. When I say “wahid” (one) instead of “wahad” (one) they chuckle. Or “meh” instead of “my” (water – mai), but it still gets the point across.
Tomorrow is the first day of class AND I AM SO EXCITED. It will be my first official Arabic class and it is three hours long, I’m sure I’m going to be fried, but that’s okay, that’s what I’m here for. Afterwards I will be signing up for the class I didn’t get into, as well as signing up for and attending the gym! It will be 90 dinar for three months (42 dollars a month…gulp) but it’s the best quality of gym they have for a price like that. And a shower….ahhh, unlimited water supply J (but still, not really, I just don’t have to pay for it). I will update you on life as an Arabic student at the University of Jordan upon my return tomorrow. I’m excited to meet up with the rest of the kids from whom I have been sheltered this weekend.
Lastly, I want to mention that I am currently sitting on the white couch, with my mahogany table, feet up, looking out past my white curtains, over my balcony onto Amman. The breeze is idyllic. People have complained about the weather, but it is perfect for me. I’ve never known such consecutively perfect weather. It is approximately 72 right now, a little breezy, sunny, blue sky, just like every night at this time. While not drinking in public for a few weeks during the high sunlight hours can be brutal, I’ve found it easy enough to adapt. I remember being told not to romanticize the Middle East, or being told when I was younger that maybe I should go just to get it “out of my system”, but I have to say, Jordan is romancing me. It’s only day 6, but while some of us are losing morale, mine just keeps peaking. I’ve been charmed, I am smitten. I love this city.
Saturday, September 5, 2009
Friday, September 4, 2009
Day 5
Today, I woke up at 10am (amazing) in my new bedroom in Jabal Amman. I got up, washed my face and ate my flatbread with strawberry jam and "orange juice". Flatbread is actually quite good. I recommend it. A couple of us decided to take a cab to the downtown area, or the area that is supposedly the life of the district. Needless to say, we came across one Zain (a T-mobile of the East) as well as an internet cafe (from where I write this blog) and a few fruit stands. Friday is the equivalent of Saturday in the West but during Ramadan... not happening so much.
Rainbow street is the one reputed for the Souks, but I think the program got it wrong (turns out the Souks are at night). We are going to continue on our journey searching for life. Otherwise, this part of town reminds me (so much) of the South of France (and the part of Eze where our apartment is, looking up from the base of the mountain, in particular) combined with northern california. There are Eucalyptus trees on every street corner and the minute I walk out of my apartment jazmine lines the roads and is simply intoxicating. The roads are extremely hilly and all the walls, villas and houses are made of concrete painted in beige, white and other neutral colors. Some are chipping, but I find it stunningly charming. The foliage is truly breathtaking for a desert. There are so many flowers of all kinds and their smell is suffocating.
I find Amman surprisingly clean. Others have complained that it is dirty, but in comparison to New York, it is pristine (and I don't find NY particularly dirty). There is hardly any litter, and the stains from drinks spilled or the like are not going to be washed off any time soon with this climate. I'm sure I am going to sit outside in the rain for hours the first time the rain falls ( if ever). A couple of us found this adorable little place called Books@Cafe. This is a haven or comfort zone to Americans and foreigners. It is a psychedlic two floor book store, internet cafe and restaurant (complete with leather couches, english speakers, PB&J, chocolate chip cookies, pancakes, pizza, etc). "Luckily" it requires a cab ride a little bit of a walk to get to, otherwise I feel as if we would get a little too cozy retreating there. It is a nice to have a little nook not too far away in order to get away from time to time.
Next...you will love this...we took a cab to Carrefour! Talk about an adventure! Buying cleaning supplies, quilt covers, TOILET PAPER!, and all the essentials ran up a hefty bill that I believe was well worth it. The hefitest bill, I regret to say, was reserved for something we found that we just could not live without. We all thought we could give anything up for a year, but it appears as if that is just not true. Three of us chipped in and bought.... The internet. As you can see, the router we bought is working well and we are using it across the apartment complex. We are slowly finding out how to secure it so that other people don't access it and slow it down 1), 2) use something we paid 70 dinar for. Regardless, this makes for a very happy Alex, and I wish it weren't true, but it is and now I can (hopefully) get to you all more quickly (and cheaply).
On the way home, we three and our 75 Carrefour bags hopped into a cab and started speaking with a particularly kind taxi driver. He taught us a few essentials (such as right Yemeen, left Shemelle, straight....) and laughed at me when after he asked me what we were here for (in arabic, and because I was in the front seat) I said "jama'a". A new word for you - Jam'a, versus Jamaa. The former -subtle nuances- apparently means mosque, while the latter, University. Who knew? I was also corrected when I responded "madrassa" the first time I answered that question here (which means school) but does not have the same connotation as 'school ' in English. Madrassa is like "college" in French.
It's surprising, but I feel so at home. I wish you all could come home with me. Hopefully you can get some idea of life through these pictures but I just don't think it does Amman justice. You absolutely must see it with your own two eyes.
Rainbow street is the one reputed for the Souks, but I think the program got it wrong (turns out the Souks are at night). We are going to continue on our journey searching for life. Otherwise, this part of town reminds me (so much) of the South of France (and the part of Eze where our apartment is, looking up from the base of the mountain, in particular) combined with northern california. There are Eucalyptus trees on every street corner and the minute I walk out of my apartment jazmine lines the roads and is simply intoxicating. The roads are extremely hilly and all the walls, villas and houses are made of concrete painted in beige, white and other neutral colors. Some are chipping, but I find it stunningly charming. The foliage is truly breathtaking for a desert. There are so many flowers of all kinds and their smell is suffocating.
I find Amman surprisingly clean. Others have complained that it is dirty, but in comparison to New York, it is pristine (and I don't find NY particularly dirty). There is hardly any litter, and the stains from drinks spilled or the like are not going to be washed off any time soon with this climate. I'm sure I am going to sit outside in the rain for hours the first time the rain falls ( if ever). A couple of us found this adorable little place called Books@Cafe. This is a haven or comfort zone to Americans and foreigners. It is a psychedlic two floor book store, internet cafe and restaurant (complete with leather couches, english speakers, PB&J, chocolate chip cookies, pancakes, pizza, etc). "Luckily" it requires a cab ride a little bit of a walk to get to, otherwise I feel as if we would get a little too cozy retreating there. It is a nice to have a little nook not too far away in order to get away from time to time.
Next...you will love this...we took a cab to Carrefour! Talk about an adventure! Buying cleaning supplies, quilt covers, TOILET PAPER!, and all the essentials ran up a hefty bill that I believe was well worth it. The hefitest bill, I regret to say, was reserved for something we found that we just could not live without. We all thought we could give anything up for a year, but it appears as if that is just not true. Three of us chipped in and bought.... The internet. As you can see, the router we bought is working well and we are using it across the apartment complex. We are slowly finding out how to secure it so that other people don't access it and slow it down 1), 2) use something we paid 70 dinar for. Regardless, this makes for a very happy Alex, and I wish it weren't true, but it is and now I can (hopefully) get to you all more quickly (and cheaply).
On the way home, we three and our 75 Carrefour bags hopped into a cab and started speaking with a particularly kind taxi driver. He taught us a few essentials (such as right Yemeen, left Shemelle, straight....) and laughed at me when after he asked me what we were here for (in arabic, and because I was in the front seat) I said "jama'a". A new word for you - Jam'a, versus Jamaa. The former -subtle nuances- apparently means mosque, while the latter, University. Who knew? I was also corrected when I responded "madrassa" the first time I answered that question here (which means school) but does not have the same connotation as 'school ' in English. Madrassa is like "college" in French.
It's surprising, but I feel so at home. I wish you all could come home with me. Hopefully you can get some idea of life through these pictures but I just don't think it does Amman justice. You absolutely must see it with your own two eyes.
Pictures of the University, my new bedroom, a few friends and Jabal Amman
One of my minarets. 
This just made me smile. Jordan thinks it is Palestine. 
The next is a view of the city.
The next is a view of the city.
Some pics to give you an idea of where I live.
This is my bedroom after I got all settled in.
Of course, you have to have BK and McDonalds!
A couple of pictures of the university below.
A couple of pictures of the university below.
Day 4
So the big day ! We woke up at the crack of dawn today in order to be quizzed on the handbook (I’d like to point out here that I was the proud recipient of a keychain as recompense) as well as be lectured on etiquette for our specific housing arrangements. We were told many details, very few of them stuck other than no parties which = inhabitants x 2 + 1 + alcohol, and that our water is brought in once a week (we are very likely to run out unless we follow strict protocol about showers (2-3 minutes each) washers (1 load a week, total), and dishes (turn off between dish!). Heat is another issue in the apartments. We are given gas with which to heat not only our stoves, but our entire living space AND the shower. They refill our energy supply once every two months and if we run out before (again, likely) it is about 450 dinar to fill up the tank (600 dollars).
Afterwards, we were briefed on the four separate housing locations (two for boys, two for girls). Since we are not dealing with boys, I will elaborate briefly on the girl housing options. The first district we were introduced to was called Jabal Amman. It is located in the South East of Amman, relatively far from the University and considered one of the more modern and “upscale” districts in the city. It is known for many things, first among them are the hospitals (phenomenal quality and on every street corner), as well as the souks in the area and the night life (we were told this is where everyone will go when they want to go out). I have the impression this is the Soho of Amman. The second district for girls was Al Rabieh, a district not far from the hotel where we were stationed, very close to the University, and also very quiet. This district is close to the boys apartments in Shmeisani and Tla al’ Ali. This is the Washington Heights of Amman.
Ten of us were grouped together, and six of the other girls not doing homestays were grouped together and we were split up into the two districts. We all live in the same complex, just in two different areas. So the suspense is killing you? Jabal Amman! That is where I am living. It is a top notch apartment, extremely spacious (I have my own bedroom), I have a kitchen, eating area, living room and bathroom and share the apartment with one other girl. She very graciously gave me the bigger room. I am certainly spoiled. I am quite obviously still in Jordan and not the U.S. but I could not ask for a nicer living arrangement in the city in this price range.
Tonight the ten of us American girls (so as to not drawn attention or anything…) walked around Jabal Amman looking for a place to eat (during Ramadan…at Iftar...without a reservation…) and ended up splitting up and eating at hotels. The people here are just so unabashedly kind, no reservations. They go out of their way to walk WITH you to places when you need directions somewhere (instead of pointing) even if they are on their way somewhere, they open up the entire restaurant if you ask for dinner (like at the hotel tonight, which was closed and locked), they open the doors for you and help you with your groceries (cab drivers), the landlord gave me his cell phone number in case anything happened, in case I needed more water, needed him to give me directions, needed my garbage taken out or needed my apartment cleaned.
On the other hand, Americans stick out, especially during Ramadan. We are wearing western clothing no matter how little skin we show, we have different mannerisms, and often we are simply loud. We are often stared at, cat called, yelled at, pointed at and it feels like a circus. I remind myself that this isn’t all bad for me considering where I live now, I am the one doing the staring, and the pointing. We are always the normative ones and here we are finally made to feel uncomfortable.
I can’t imagine feeling this out of place my entire life being a minority of any sort in my home country. It’s not that we look so differently from everyone, but you can just tell, physically, it’s uncomfortable and it gives me a whole new dose of much needed perspective. I’ve found that the best way to combat this is by dodging eye contact with the men who cat call and standing up straight and walking by, as well as smiling when it is appropriate and simply greeting people graciously, stopping to make time and act respectfully towards the people who so willingly accept you into their country. Over and over again you hear “Ahalan wa salan!”…“ You are so very welcome [into Jordan].”I’ve never met such a constant stream of kindness.
People also work without a schedule here. There is no time for things. We have been warned that professors’ show up to class when they want and this can be 10-20-30 minutes late (or later) but that we (at the lowest end of the academic food chain) must always be on time. Buses do not run on a particular schedule, it shows up at the stop when it does and it gets you to the destination when it does. If you need to go somewhere, take a cab or even better; take “Service” (ser-veece), more expensive, more prompt. It is no wonder the life expectancy in Jordan surpasses the US’.
I also did some grocery shopping today (actually bought things!). I really have no idea what it is I bought, and how much I spent and how long it will last me, but the yogurt looked good (minus the expiration date we will ignore) and the flatbread (hubs) was particularly moist. Today my food intake precisely entailed scrambled eggs and hummus for breakfast, a cliff bar at some point in the afternoon, and a piece of Arab pizza with veggies on flatbread. I think consumerism in America will affect me upon my return. Everything from my psychological reflection on things to my GI tract is digesting this information and processing it accordingly (i.e. being astounding by how much we use in the U.S. of everything, especially me, as well as simply accommodating my stomach to the realities of food rations and availability)
Tomorrow I will be exploring the district of Jabal Amman and hope to find some exciting new places to report back about. Hopefully I will get some photos up so you can see the area and the apartment. You should really come visit, I’m going to be learning to cook Jordanian food in Culture Club after Ramadan. I will greet you with the hospitality of any Jordanian; it is of the best quality in the world.
Afterwards, we were briefed on the four separate housing locations (two for boys, two for girls). Since we are not dealing with boys, I will elaborate briefly on the girl housing options. The first district we were introduced to was called Jabal Amman. It is located in the South East of Amman, relatively far from the University and considered one of the more modern and “upscale” districts in the city. It is known for many things, first among them are the hospitals (phenomenal quality and on every street corner), as well as the souks in the area and the night life (we were told this is where everyone will go when they want to go out). I have the impression this is the Soho of Amman. The second district for girls was Al Rabieh, a district not far from the hotel where we were stationed, very close to the University, and also very quiet. This district is close to the boys apartments in Shmeisani and Tla al’ Ali. This is the Washington Heights of Amman.
Ten of us were grouped together, and six of the other girls not doing homestays were grouped together and we were split up into the two districts. We all live in the same complex, just in two different areas. So the suspense is killing you? Jabal Amman! That is where I am living. It is a top notch apartment, extremely spacious (I have my own bedroom), I have a kitchen, eating area, living room and bathroom and share the apartment with one other girl. She very graciously gave me the bigger room. I am certainly spoiled. I am quite obviously still in Jordan and not the U.S. but I could not ask for a nicer living arrangement in the city in this price range.
Tonight the ten of us American girls (so as to not drawn attention or anything…) walked around Jabal Amman looking for a place to eat (during Ramadan…at Iftar...without a reservation…) and ended up splitting up and eating at hotels. The people here are just so unabashedly kind, no reservations. They go out of their way to walk WITH you to places when you need directions somewhere (instead of pointing) even if they are on their way somewhere, they open up the entire restaurant if you ask for dinner (like at the hotel tonight, which was closed and locked), they open the doors for you and help you with your groceries (cab drivers), the landlord gave me his cell phone number in case anything happened, in case I needed more water, needed him to give me directions, needed my garbage taken out or needed my apartment cleaned.
On the other hand, Americans stick out, especially during Ramadan. We are wearing western clothing no matter how little skin we show, we have different mannerisms, and often we are simply loud. We are often stared at, cat called, yelled at, pointed at and it feels like a circus. I remind myself that this isn’t all bad for me considering where I live now, I am the one doing the staring, and the pointing. We are always the normative ones and here we are finally made to feel uncomfortable.
I can’t imagine feeling this out of place my entire life being a minority of any sort in my home country. It’s not that we look so differently from everyone, but you can just tell, physically, it’s uncomfortable and it gives me a whole new dose of much needed perspective. I’ve found that the best way to combat this is by dodging eye contact with the men who cat call and standing up straight and walking by, as well as smiling when it is appropriate and simply greeting people graciously, stopping to make time and act respectfully towards the people who so willingly accept you into their country. Over and over again you hear “Ahalan wa salan!”…“ You are so very welcome [into Jordan].”I’ve never met such a constant stream of kindness.
People also work without a schedule here. There is no time for things. We have been warned that professors’ show up to class when they want and this can be 10-20-30 minutes late (or later) but that we (at the lowest end of the academic food chain) must always be on time. Buses do not run on a particular schedule, it shows up at the stop when it does and it gets you to the destination when it does. If you need to go somewhere, take a cab or even better; take “Service” (ser-veece), more expensive, more prompt. It is no wonder the life expectancy in Jordan surpasses the US’.
I also did some grocery shopping today (actually bought things!). I really have no idea what it is I bought, and how much I spent and how long it will last me, but the yogurt looked good (minus the expiration date we will ignore) and the flatbread (hubs) was particularly moist. Today my food intake precisely entailed scrambled eggs and hummus for breakfast, a cliff bar at some point in the afternoon, and a piece of Arab pizza with veggies on flatbread. I think consumerism in America will affect me upon my return. Everything from my psychological reflection on things to my GI tract is digesting this information and processing it accordingly (i.e. being astounding by how much we use in the U.S. of everything, especially me, as well as simply accommodating my stomach to the realities of food rations and availability)
Tomorrow I will be exploring the district of Jabal Amman and hope to find some exciting new places to report back about. Hopefully I will get some photos up so you can see the area and the apartment. You should really come visit, I’m going to be learning to cook Jordanian food in Culture Club after Ramadan. I will greet you with the hospitality of any Jordanian; it is of the best quality in the world.
Wednesday, September 2, 2009
Day 3
Ahlan!
Always an adventure in Amman. I'm not sure what's going on with the jetlag business but waking up at 4 am every day most likely will not materialize into further happiness. I heard the call to prayer again and that did make me happy. I still smell of Dead Sea water. No matter how much soap and how many showers, smelling good might take a little while.
Today was exciting as we drove to the University for a tour to find out where we were going to be for the semester. It is a beautiful school, and after registering for classes and trips, we were able to see a small section of this sprawling campus. It is dense with trees that give some semblance of northern california, as well as water fountains and ornate buildings. I think I will be okay here.
We registered for classes and I also requested a "peer tutor". This entails a Jordainian student from the university hanging out with and speaking to me 2-3 hours a week solely in Arabic, and going out into Amman to use vocabulary and help me improve. In essence they buy friends for us here.
I find out about classes tomorrow and will keep you up-to-date.
Next weekend I will be going to Aqaba, Wadi Rum and Petra on a three-day excursion laden with camel rides, scuba diving, rock climbing and bedouin people. Elated. We have a selection of four trips to chose from including two "eco-walks", desert castles and a tour of biblical Jordan (which was my choice) October 24th, baby! Although, I have to admit that the charms of desert castles (including visiting a castle on the Iraqi border) are tempting, yet I abstain (it is Ramadan, afterall).
Speaking of Ramadan, the subtleties of sneaking food are becoming more and more interesting. Downing the "Ramadan survival food packet" that we are to stuff and hide away from the outside world and sneak out only when we are about to faint and/or hiding behind a big tree branch is becoming a series of laughable occasions. We have begun a sort of "Snicker solidarity" in the computer lab today using our bodies as shields from those around us observing the holiday. This turns into "Shh, quickk! just turn around for one second I have to take a bite, I'm going to die, hold on!" Followed by a "Crap, someone's coming, just down it!"
Being respectful comes with a hefty laugh, not that it is all fun and games. If you are found disrupting the sanctity of Ramadan, you can be kicked off campus or have you student ID card removed (guess who read her student handbook). We do try hard, but 7am to 7pm is a bit too long for those of us not observing and not trained in 12 hour stretches without drink and food.
I am so happy here. The honeymoon phase is still in action. Tomorrow will begin "real life". We, the apartment seekers (versus the homestay-ers) are going to have an enlightening experience I feel. The homestay get a close-up view of the every day life of the Jordanian family, while we make the experience happen for ourselves. There is so much to gain from both experiences.
I'm excited to survive without a soft cushion, barter for groceries and visit the souke this weekend.
I will keep you updated on the housing situation tomorrow as well as classes. Definetly well past bed time. The internet is impossible here, the fact that I've had it at all two days in a row is a miarcle.
Ma'sa al-kheir!
Always an adventure in Amman. I'm not sure what's going on with the jetlag business but waking up at 4 am every day most likely will not materialize into further happiness. I heard the call to prayer again and that did make me happy. I still smell of Dead Sea water. No matter how much soap and how many showers, smelling good might take a little while.
Today was exciting as we drove to the University for a tour to find out where we were going to be for the semester. It is a beautiful school, and after registering for classes and trips, we were able to see a small section of this sprawling campus. It is dense with trees that give some semblance of northern california, as well as water fountains and ornate buildings. I think I will be okay here.
We registered for classes and I also requested a "peer tutor". This entails a Jordainian student from the university hanging out with and speaking to me 2-3 hours a week solely in Arabic, and going out into Amman to use vocabulary and help me improve. In essence they buy friends for us here.
I find out about classes tomorrow and will keep you up-to-date.
Next weekend I will be going to Aqaba, Wadi Rum and Petra on a three-day excursion laden with camel rides, scuba diving, rock climbing and bedouin people. Elated. We have a selection of four trips to chose from including two "eco-walks", desert castles and a tour of biblical Jordan (which was my choice) October 24th, baby! Although, I have to admit that the charms of desert castles (including visiting a castle on the Iraqi border) are tempting, yet I abstain (it is Ramadan, afterall).
Speaking of Ramadan, the subtleties of sneaking food are becoming more and more interesting. Downing the "Ramadan survival food packet" that we are to stuff and hide away from the outside world and sneak out only when we are about to faint and/or hiding behind a big tree branch is becoming a series of laughable occasions. We have begun a sort of "Snicker solidarity" in the computer lab today using our bodies as shields from those around us observing the holiday. This turns into "Shh, quickk! just turn around for one second I have to take a bite, I'm going to die, hold on!" Followed by a "Crap, someone's coming, just down it!"
Being respectful comes with a hefty laugh, not that it is all fun and games. If you are found disrupting the sanctity of Ramadan, you can be kicked off campus or have you student ID card removed (guess who read her student handbook). We do try hard, but 7am to 7pm is a bit too long for those of us not observing and not trained in 12 hour stretches without drink and food.
Otherwise, today we went to the U.S. Embassy which dismantles any illusions you may have had about the powers of our Great Nation. We were very explicitly told that the ease with which you may be jailed is astounding (being in the presence of drugs (a club where you are downstairs and ecstasy is being rolled upstairs included), insulting the king, forgery) and there is nothing the Embassy can do to bail you out. Abuse and corruption run rampant in behind those bars. Have fun!
For Iftar tonight they took us to a stunning restaurant decorated with canopies, water falls, beautiful landscapes with long family style sprawls of lamb, chicken, cucumbers, tomatoes, apple-yogurt dips, falafel, pita....hummus... followed by shisha (of course) and shai (tea).
They will always ask: Cahua? Shai? - Unless you plan to be up for 40 hours, chose the shai. The Jordanians LOVE zucar (sugar). They put more zucar than shai in the cup. They love honey, they love to stuff you with zucar pastries covered in honey.
Otherwise, I have to say, the highlight of today was very simple. A couple of us decided to check out the local grocery store and it took every ounce of courage I had not to whip out my camera- I am the ultra-tourist trying to suppress her energy in this country. Barrels and barrels of beans and rice, yogurt and arabic peanut butter, pepsi and cheetos with arabic writing. There is virutally no English in the grocery store on any product. New word of the day "Kem?" -How much?
Tomorrow we finally move into our apartments and homestays, bismillah because another day in that room might prove quite suffocating.I am so happy here. The honeymoon phase is still in action. Tomorrow will begin "real life". We, the apartment seekers (versus the homestay-ers) are going to have an enlightening experience I feel. The homestay get a close-up view of the every day life of the Jordanian family, while we make the experience happen for ourselves. There is so much to gain from both experiences.
I'm excited to survive without a soft cushion, barter for groceries and visit the souke this weekend.
I will keep you updated on the housing situation tomorrow as well as classes. Definetly well past bed time. The internet is impossible here, the fact that I've had it at all two days in a row is a miarcle.
Ma'sa al-kheir!
Tuesday, September 1, 2009
Loading pictures takes seven thousand years
Pictures from Day 2: Access to the internet is so severely limited and painfully slow, so here is a sampling of the day.
The mountains of Madaba and a few reference points.
These are some of the views of what Jordan looks like an hour outside Amman in Madaba on the way to the Dead Sea.
The mountains of Madaba and a few reference points.
More interesting than me is directly behind me a Palestinian territory border
.
.The giant landmass in the back is Israel.
These are some of the views of what Jordan looks like an hour outside Amman in Madaba on the way to the Dead Sea. A couple of us who decided to get covered in the healing mud from the afternoon.
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