Day 6

Awesome day… after waking up at quarter to eleven (I love the weekend) as we had set a plan to leave by eleven, I hustled to dress appropriately and scarf down some flat bread so we could begin the adventures. A couple of the girls on my floor and I took a cab to downtown Amman (where we found the life of the city) to see the Roman Amphitheater, the Odeon and the museum in the area. It was a stunning sight, the stairs were menacing, and since we were the only tourists there, we climbed to the very top and inhaled Amman from an altitude. By chance, we ran into a couple other girls on our floor, and together we hopped a cab where I asked “Ahlan, Temple of Hercules?” – Aywa, aywa (yes, yes). The man drives us first to one mosque, where we shake our heads, and again, in obnoxious English “ Tem---plleeee--- of HER-CU-LES” Ah! Aywa, aywa, Jaba al Husseini. At which point we end up at a second mosque (and here we exit, for our communication skills are pathetic).

The mosques we saw were quite breathtaking, and if it were not for our stunning verbal pyrotechnics, we would have missed a beautiful part of town.
Finally we pulled together our Arabic skills and figured out a way to convey “Citadel” in Arabic, and took our third taxi to Jebel al Qal’a (citadel hill), which was settled over 18,000 years ago. Now, if you happened to be one of those people who watched the indie film “Captain Abu Raed” before I left, this is where the boys played soccer- I also took a picture of the view Abu Raed had from his bedroom. For the rest of you, I provided pictures. We, once again, by chance, met up with seven or eight of the boys from whom we had been separated on the first day. They helped guide us along and told us tales of Sheimsani where they live, as well as accounts of a day in the life of a homestay (better them than I!).


We were able to exchange numbers and figure out our schedules at school. The amazing thing about this summit, other than the Temple and all the ruins is that on one side (the view from the movie and my pictures) are the Palestinian “camps” set up for the huge influx of refugees (these are permanent, and this region is known as East Amman) whereas the other side is the where we live, and practically the rest of Amman (West Amman, even though we are on the south eastern corner of the west side of Amman). The view is beyond words for me. Amman appears the largest city in the world due to the undulating hills and all the houses appearing the same from afar. It gives you the impression of looking onto a gigantic 3-D puzzle.

After an hour or so of uncovering the ruins, and the museum (which, I’m happy to say, we paid half price for since we were UJ students), the boys bravely walked down the hill to the Theater, and while I was antsy to join them and walk (as opposed to paying for a cab), it is not culturally appropriate for me, the one girl, to be walking with 8 men to whom I am not related, during Ramadan, in a market place. Needless to say, four of us took a cab down to the Souks on the main street (Al-Hashemi Street) to haggle for a few hours. While this proved quite fruitful, it is nonetheless exhausting. I haggled for three gifts (which I cannot describe since they might be for you) as well as a charm of the Westbank (I did not buy a charm of Jordan yet) prayer beads made of a beautiful blue local stone from the Bedouins, and a silver keychain of Jordan with the locations scripted in Arabic. I am sorry to say, but I will be bringing home Argelieh, or Hubbly Bubbly (a hookah), it’s just going to happen. There are SO many amazing things to bargain for, and if you are dying for a prayer mat, an ornate keffiyeh, scarf, women’s dress, jewelry etc, let me know, I’m becoming a star haggler. Kem? Wahad dinar!? Le, le… Ithnaan for wahad dinar..AYWA!

There are subtle differences in language I hear here. Even with m impressively extensive knowledge of Arabic vocabulary, people still ask me if I have been to Egypt. When I say “wahid” (one) instead of “wahad” (one) they chuckle. Or “meh” instead of “my” (water – mai), but it still gets the point across.

Tomorrow is the first day of class AND I AM SO EXCITED. It will be my first official Arabic class and it is three hours long, I’m sure I’m going to be fried, but that’s okay, that’s what I’m here for. Afterwards I will be signing up for the class I didn’t get into, as well as signing up for and attending the gym! It will be 90 dinar for three months (42 dollars a month…gulp) but it’s the best quality of gym they have for a price like that. And a shower….ahhh, unlimited water supply J (but still, not really, I just don’t have to pay for it). I will update you on life as an Arabic student at the University of Jordan upon my return tomorrow. I’m excited to meet up with the rest of the kids from whom I have been sheltered this weekend.

Lastly, I want to mention that I am currently sitting on the white couch, with my mahogany table, feet up, looking out past my white curtains, over my balcony onto Amman. The breeze is idyllic. People have complained about the weather, but it is perfect for me. I’ve never known such consecutively perfect weather. It is approximately 72 right now, a little breezy, sunny, blue sky, just like every night at this time. While not drinking in public for a few weeks during the high sunlight hours can be brutal, I’ve found it easy enough to adapt. I remember being told not to romanticize the Middle East, or being told when I was younger that maybe I should go just to get it “out of my system”, but I have to say, Jordan is romancing me. It’s only day 6, but while some of us are losing morale, mine just keeps peaking. I’ve been charmed, I am smitten. I love this city.