Day 4

So the big day ! We woke up at the crack of dawn today in order to be quizzed on the handbook (I’d like to point out here that I was the proud recipient of a keychain as recompense) as well as be lectured on etiquette for our specific housing arrangements. We were told many details, very few of them stuck other than no parties which = inhabitants x 2 + 1 + alcohol, and that our water is brought in once a week (we are very likely to run out unless we follow strict protocol about showers (2-3 minutes each) washers (1 load a week, total), and dishes (turn off between dish!). Heat is another issue in the apartments. We are given gas with which to heat not only our stoves, but our entire living space AND the shower. They refill our energy supply once every two months and if we run out before (again, likely) it is about 450 dinar to fill up the tank (600 dollars).

Afterwards, we were briefed on the four separate housing locations (two for boys, two for girls). Since we are not dealing with boys, I will elaborate briefly on the girl housing options. The first district we were introduced to was called Jabal Amman. It is located in the South East of Amman, relatively far from the University and considered one of the more modern and “upscale” districts in the city. It is known for many things, first among them are the hospitals (phenomenal quality and on every street corner), as well as the souks in the area and the night life (we were told this is where everyone will go when they want to go out). I have the impression this is the Soho of Amman. The second district for girls was Al Rabieh, a district not far from the hotel where we were stationed, very close to the University, and also very quiet. This district is close to the boys apartments in Shmeisani and Tla al’ Ali. This is the Washington Heights of Amman.

Ten of us were grouped together, and six of the other girls not doing homestays were grouped together and we were split up into the two districts. We all live in the same complex, just in two different areas. So the suspense is killing you? Jabal Amman! That is where I am living. It is a top notch apartment, extremely spacious (I have my own bedroom), I have a kitchen, eating area, living room and bathroom and share the apartment with one other girl. She very graciously gave me the bigger room. I am certainly spoiled. I am quite obviously still in Jordan and not the U.S. but I could not ask for a nicer living arrangement in the city in this price range.

Tonight the ten of us American girls (so as to not drawn attention or anything…) walked around Jabal Amman looking for a place to eat (during Ramadan…at Iftar...without a reservation…) and ended up splitting up and eating at hotels. The people here are just so unabashedly kind, no reservations. They go out of their way to walk WITH you to places when you need directions somewhere (instead of pointing) even if they are on their way somewhere, they open up the entire restaurant if you ask for dinner (like at the hotel tonight, which was closed and locked), they open the doors for you and help you with your groceries (cab drivers), the landlord gave me his cell phone number in case anything happened, in case I needed more water, needed him to give me directions, needed my garbage taken out or needed my apartment cleaned.

On the other hand, Americans stick out, especially during Ramadan. We are wearing western clothing no matter how little skin we show, we have different mannerisms, and often we are simply loud. We are often stared at, cat called, yelled at, pointed at and it feels like a circus. I remind myself that this isn’t all bad for me considering where I live now, I am the one doing the staring, and the pointing. We are always the normative ones and here we are finally made to feel uncomfortable.

I can’t imagine feeling this out of place my entire life being a minority of any sort in my home country. It’s not that we look so differently from everyone, but you can just tell, physically, it’s uncomfortable and it gives me a whole new dose of much needed perspective. I’ve found that the best way to combat this is by dodging eye contact with the men who cat call and standing up straight and walking by, as well as smiling when it is appropriate and simply greeting people graciously, stopping to make time and act respectfully towards the people who so willingly accept you into their country. Over and over again you hear “Ahalan wa salan!”…“ You are so very welcome [into Jordan].”I’ve never met such a constant stream of kindness.

People also work without a schedule here. There is no time for things. We have been warned that professors’ show up to class when they want and this can be 10-20-30 minutes late (or later) but that we (at the lowest end of the academic food chain) must always be on time. Buses do not run on a particular schedule, it shows up at the stop when it does and it gets you to the destination when it does. If you need to go somewhere, take a cab or even better; take “Service” (ser-veece), more expensive, more prompt. It is no wonder the life expectancy in Jordan surpasses the US’.

I also did some grocery shopping today (actually bought things!). I really have no idea what it is I bought, and how much I spent and how long it will last me, but the yogurt looked good (minus the expiration date we will ignore) and the flatbread (hubs) was particularly moist. Today my food intake precisely entailed scrambled eggs and hummus for breakfast, a cliff bar at some point in the afternoon, and a piece of Arab pizza with veggies on flatbread. I think consumerism in America will affect me upon my return. Everything from my psychological reflection on things to my GI tract is digesting this information and processing it accordingly (i.e. being astounding by how much we use in the U.S. of everything, especially me, as well as simply accommodating my stomach to the realities of food rations and availability)

Tomorrow I will be exploring the district of Jabal Amman and hope to find some exciting new places to report back about. Hopefully I will get some photos up so you can see the area and the apartment. You should really come visit, I’m going to be learning to cook Jordanian food in Culture Club after Ramadan. I will greet you with the hospitality of any Jordanian; it is of the best quality in the world.